2Fifty Texas BBQ Reflects Fernando González’s Roots

Growing up in El Salvador during the civil war, Fernando González learned to cook over fire out of necessity.

“Many times we had no access to electricity or gas, so we would rely on other sources of fuel” such as charcoal, he told the Hyattsville Wire. “Cooking on the fire, grilling, it’s what has accompanied me throughout my life to this point. So it is very natural for me to cook with smoke and fire.”

Those skills have paid off for González, who won Restaurateur of the Year at the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington’s recent RAMMY Awards ceremony. 

It wasn’t his first award. Along with his wife, Debby Portillo, he runs Riverdale Park’s 2Fifty Texas BBQ, which won the 2025 RAMMY for Casual Restaurant of the Year and has regularly been named a top barbecue joint by publications as varied as the Washington Post, Yelp,  the Washingtonian and the New York Times.

The restaurant traces its roots back to the Riverdale Park Farmer’s Market, where the Gonzálezes sold their barbecue every week for over a year before opening their first storefront in 2020 just down the street at 4700 Riverdale Rd.

As a testament to those roots, 2Fifty follows a mission to support local and sustainable businesses throughout its work. All baked goods are bought from local vendors, such as Manifest Bread. Produce is collected in partnership with urban non-profit Eco City Farms. Meat products are sourced from farms with a commitment to ethical practices and land stewardship, such as Roseda Farms. 

“What we do is fire management 24/6, all hands on deck – handcrafted, artisanal BBQ without the intervention of all those automated elements,” González told the Wire.

For González, who immigrated to the United States eight years ago, “fire management” is not just a cooking technique, but a lifestyle that has followed him from his childhood in El Salvador. 

The Latin American roots of the pit-master are reflected throughout the 2Fifty menu. You can order a side of mac and cheese, but you can also accompany your smoked brisket with fried plantains, Caribbean-inspired rice and beans, or a charred corn salad called esquites. The mix-and- match of very traditional American barbecue flavors with Latin American ingredients and recipes reflects a truth that González carries throughout his craft: “barbecue is universal.”

If you get the chance to visit the Riverdale Park location, make sure to call ahead of time or reach out on the 2Fifty Instagram to request a tour of the on-site smokehouse.

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